High-Falutin' with Scotch

In the early 19th century, enterprising European wine growers attempted to grow European grape vines on the East coast of North America. They failed. The vines would grow for 1-2 years and then sicken, their leaves turning yellow, then red, then drying out completely before falling. Perplexed, these Europeans decided to send North American grape vines back to France to test differences in the plant stock as well as the soil. In 1863, small tracts of vines in Languedoc began falling under the same affliction. By 1867, it had spread to Bordeaux and Cognac. Within the next 15 years, 40% of all French vineyards had perished, and soon parts of Spain and Italy would be affected. What happened was, when the North American grape vines got sent to France, a tiny, root-eating aphid named Phylloxera vastatrix came with them. North American grape vines have naturally adapted thick, tough roots to survive against phylloxera's voracious appetite, but European vines were mowed down like Denny's Slams the Tuesday after the Super Bowl. The death of so many vines not only affected the production and availability of wine, but of brandy as well.

The upper classes of England, unable to indulge in French cognac and in dire need of a drink that would separate them from the commoners, turned to whiskey. Although global sales of Irish whiskey dwarfed those of Scotch at the time, the English gentry preferred their neighbors to the North, Scotland having won seals of approval from King George in 1822 and Queen Victoria in 1852, while Ireland was seen as a lawless place populated by uncouth rebels. By the time the British stopped shipping Irish whiskey throughout their empire following Irish independence, Scotch whisky's love affair with the top-hat & monocle set was firmly ensconced.

In modern times, Scotch whisky is still seen as a bit elitist, although the Scotch bar itself has for the most part followed the recent trends toward casualness and informality. The problem with that is that if an imbiber wishes to evaluate a whiskey, it's best to do so with few distractions, such as crowds, loud music, food odors, etc. You know, the things associated with informal and casual bars and restaurants. Ideally, one's home would be the best location, but for those of more modest means (like myself), regularly buying single-malt Scotches to evaluate at home isn't an option. So for those of you, I present the Gallery Restaurant at the Ballantyne Resort.

The Gallery Restaurant (10000 Ballantyne Commons Parkway, Charlotte; 704-248-4100) may not have the largest Scotch selection in the area, but their options are still extensive. Like all Scotch bars, their emphasis is on single-malt whiskies, of which they have more than 40 in addition to their dozen or so blends. Pricing for a dram is what you would expect for Scotch whisky, ranging from $7 for Johnnie Walker Red to $400 for Johnnie Walker Blue Anniversary, with most notable single-malts falling in the $9-30 range. Of the single-malts, all regions of Scotland are represented by multiple distilleries, from the Western isles and Islay, to the under-appreciated Lowlands near Edinburgh.

The bar area at the Gallery Restaurant is located at the opposite side of the dining room from the kitchen, so I always sit in this area in order to avoid kitchen odors influencing my nosing of the whiskies. Because they are located in a resort hotel, I have never experienced notable crowds during any of my visits. They occasionally host whisky dinners, bringing in distillery/distributor reps and notable chefs to pair Scotches with food courses. And starting at 5pm every evening, they have "Flight School."

In my humble opinion, Flight School is what separates the Gallery Restaurant from other regional Scotch bars. They have 10 different Scotch flights to choose from, each consisting of 3 or 4 half-ounce pours for $10-25. Wanting to discover the differences between the Scotch producing regions? Choose the 2nd Flight, which pits a West Coast against a Lowland and a Speyside. Curious about wood finishes like sherry, port, and burgundy barrels? Take a tour of the Glenmorangie house by ordering the 10th Flight (my personal fave). Are blends more your fancy? Say hello to the 6th Flight. Ever wonder how additional aging can affect taste? You're in luck, because the Gallery Restaurant offers not one, not two, but four linear house studies, two for the Macallan and one each for Glenfiddich and the Glenlivet. Not sure about anything? Allow their incredibly knowledgeable staff to make recommendations.

Not that the Gallery Restaurant isn't without faults. Their single-malt menu isn't as extensive as another area Scotch bar. Some single-malts are regionally mislabeled. Non-Scotch whiskey inventory is incredibly limited. With their lack of crowds, people-watching is close to impossible, which might be an issue as the night winds down or for non-Scotch-enthusiasts that are accompanying you. And of course, with their location in the Ballantyne area, they are about a 20-minute drive from downtown Charlotte in the best of traffic conditions. Minor infractions, sure, but infractions nonetheless.

If you're wanting to enjoy a nice quiet evening discovering the jewels of Scotland, make the trip. But before you go, let me know if you need company, as I'm ever willing when able.

Salud.